How to Xeriscape Your Lawn in Austin, TX

Austin’s water restrictions are not temporary — they are permanent. Automatic sprinkler systems are limited to one day per week, and that one day is not enough to keep a St. Augustine lawn alive through July and August without thousands of gallons of supplemental watering. Xeriscaping is not about giving up on your yard. It is about designing a landscape that thrives on what Austin’s climate actually provides — and looks better than the brown, crunchy lawn next door.

This is a complete, step-by-step guide to converting your Austin lawn to a xeriscape. We will cover planning, grass removal, soil preparation, plant selection, irrigation, mulch, hardscape, and Austin Water rebates. Whether you are DIYing or hiring a professional, this is every decision you need to make in the order you need to make them.

What Xeriscaping Actually Is (and Is Not)

Xeriscaping is a design methodology that uses drought-adapted plants, efficient irrigation, and soil improvements to create a landscape that needs little to no supplemental water. It is not a gravel yard with a few cacti. That is “zeroscaping” — and it is ugly, hot, and bad for your property value.

A well-designed Austin xeriscape is lush, layered, and green. It includes structural plants like agave and yucca, flowering perennials like autumn sage and blackfoot daisy, ornamental grasses for movement and texture, and shade trees. The difference from a traditional landscape is that every plant is selected because it can handle Austin’s heat, clay soil, and irregular rainfall without constant irrigation.

Xeriscaping typically costs $5 to $20 per square foot professionally installed, and it reduces outdoor water use by 50% to 75%.

Step 1: Assess Your Site

Before you remove a single blade of grass, map your property. Walk the entire yard at three times of day — morning, noon, and late afternoon — and note the following:

• Sun exposure: Which areas get full sun (6+ hours direct), part sun (3–6 hours), or full shade? This determines plant placement more than any other factor
• Existing trees: Map every tree you plan to keep. Their root zones and canopy shade create microclimates that affect what you can plant beneath them
• Soil type: Most of Austin sits on Blackland clay or shallow limestone. Dig a 12-inch test hole — if the soil is sticky and forms a ribbon when squeezed, you have clay. If you hit rock within 6 inches, you have shallow limestone
• Drainage: Where does water pool after rain? Where does it flow? These low spots need either drainage solutions or plants that tolerate wet feet
• Slope and grade: Water runs downhill. Slopes need different plants than flat areas, and steep slopes may need terracing or retaining walls
• Views: What do you see from inside the house? From the street? From the patio? The xeriscape should frame views you want to see and screen views you do not
• Utilities: Call 811 before any digging. Mark sprinkler lines, gas, electric, and cable locations

Sketch a rough site plan with dimensions. You do not need CAD software — graph paper works. This map will guide every decision from here forward.

Step 2: Design Your Xeriscape

Design before you shop. The most common xeriscape mistake is buying plants at the nursery and figuring out where to put them later. That produces a random collection, not a landscape.

Hydrozoning

Divide your yard into three water zones:

• High water zone (oasis): Immediately adjacent to the house, patio, and high-visibility areas. This is where you can put a few plants that need occasional supplemental water — like a small herb garden, potted tropicals, or a specimen tree. Keep this zone small, typically 10% to 20% of the total landscape
• Moderate water zone (transition): Between the oasis and the dry zone. Native perennials, ornamental grasses, and adapted shrubs that need water only during extreme drought. About 30% of the total area
• Low water zone (arid): The largest zone, 50% to 60% of the landscape. Fully drought-tolerant natives and adapted plants that survive on rainfall alone once established. Agave, yucca, native grasses, and xeric ground covers

Layering

Think in vertical layers from ground level up:

• Ground plane: Mulch, decomposed granite, gravel, or ground cover plants (Texas frogfruit, horsherb, silver ponyfoot)
• Low layer (0–2 ft): Ground covers, low perennials, small grasses (blackfoot daisy, damianita, Mexican feather grass)
• Mid layer (2–5 ft): Shrubs and larger perennials (autumn sage, flame acanthus, Texas sage, pride of Barbados)
• Tall layer (5–15 ft): Large shrubs and small ornamental trees (desert willow, Texas mountain laurel, cenizo)
• Canopy (15+ ft): Shade trees (live oak, cedar elm, Mexican white oak, chinkapin oak)

Every view through the landscape should have at least three layers visible. This creates depth, visual interest, and the lush feeling that distinguishes a xeriscape from a bare yard.

Step 3: Remove the Existing Lawn

Existing turf grass must be completely removed before xeriscaping. Grass left underneath mulch or gravel will grow through and create a maintenance nightmare. Three methods:

Sod cutting (recommended)

A sod cutter is a machine that slices grass and roots at a set depth (usually 1.5 to 2 inches) and rolls it up like carpet. This is the fastest method — a professional crew can strip 1,000 square feet in a few hours. The sod can be composted or hauled away. Work begins the same day. Cost: $0.50 to $1.20 per square foot.

Solarization

Cover the lawn with clear plastic sheeting, weigh down the edges, and let the sun cook the grass for 6 to 8 weeks during summer. This kills grass, weeds, and soil pathogens. It is essentially free but requires 6 to 8 weeks of patience and only works in hot months (June through August in Austin). The dead grass decomposes in place and adds organic matter to the soil.

Herbicide

Apply a non-selective herbicide (glyphosate). The grass dies in 7 to 14 days. A second application may be needed for complete kill. Cost is low (under $50 for chemicals), but you need to wait 2 to 4 weeks before planting. Some homeowners prefer to avoid herbicides entirely.

Our recommendation: Sod cutting for professional projects, solarization for DIY projects where you can plan ahead. If you are applying for Austin Water’s WaterWise rebate, confirm which removal methods qualify before starting.

Step 4: Prepare the Soil

Austin’s clay soil is the single biggest challenge for xeriscape success. Clay holds water on the surface and suffocates roots. Most native plants are adapted to well-drained soil — not standing water.

For clay soil (most of Austin)

• Till or fork the top 6 to 8 inches of soil
• Incorporate 3 to 4 inches of compost (finished compost, not raw material). This improves drainage, adds nutrients, and creates air pockets for root growth
• Do not add sand to clay. Sand plus clay equals concrete. Compost is the only amendment that works
• If you have severely compacted clay, consider building raised planting berms 8 to 12 inches above grade using a mix of native soil and compost. This gives plants the drainage they need without importing a completely new soil profile

For shallow limestone (West Austin, Hill Country)

• You cannot till rock. Instead, build up — add 6 to 12 inches of planting soil on top of the limestone
• Use a mix of 70% native topsoil and 30% compost
• Many native Hill Country plants (mountain laurel, agarito, Texas sage) evolved in thin limestone soil and actually prefer it. Plant those species in pockets of existing soil between rock outcrops

Soil preparation is the step most DIYers skip and most cheap contractors shortchange. It is invisible once the project is done, but it determines whether your plants thrive or struggle for years. Budget 15% to 20% of your total project cost for soil work.

Step 5: Install Hardscape and Edging

Install all hardscape elements before planting. Hardscape includes:

• Pathways: Decomposed granite (DG), flagstone stepping stones, or paver paths. DG paths cost $3 to $6 per square foot installed
• Patios and seating areas: If your xeriscape includes an expanded patio, build it now
• Steel edging: Mild steel landscape edging creates clean, permanent borders between planting beds, gravel areas, and pathways. It prevents gravel from migrating and gives the landscape a finished, intentional look. We use 4-inch and 6-inch mild steel edging — not aluminum
• Retaining walls: For any grade changes or terraced planting beds
• Boulders and rock features: Place large accent boulders before planting. Moving a 500-pound boulder through a planted bed destroys everything in its path
• Dry creek beds: If your drainage plan includes a dry creek bed, build it during the hardscape phase

Hardscape provides the structure and architecture of your xeriscape. Plants fill in around it. Without hardscape, a xeriscape looks formless — with it, the landscape has clear lines, defined spaces, and a sense of intention.

Step 6: Install Drip Irrigation

Even a xeriscape needs irrigation during plant establishment (the first 1 to 2 growing seasons). Drip irrigation is the only system that makes sense for a xeriscape — overhead sprinklers waste 30% to 50% of their water to evaporation and overspray.

Drip system basics

• Main line: 3/4-inch polyethylene tubing runs from the water source to each planting zone
• Emitters: Individual drip emitters at each plant deliver water directly to the root zone. 1 to 2 GPH emitters for small plants, 2 to 4 GPH for large shrubs and trees
• Zones: Match drip zones to your hydrozones. The oasis zone gets more frequent watering; the arid zone gets less. A smart controller with weather-based adjustment saves the most water
• Timer: Set to water deeply and infrequently — not a little bit every day. Deep watering (30 to 60 minutes) once or twice a week encourages deep root growth, which is what makes plants drought-tolerant

Professional drip irrigation installation costs $1.70 to $4.80 per square foot. A basic DIY system with drip tubing and emitters from a big-box store costs $0.50 to $1.50 per square foot in materials.

After plants are established (12 to 24 months), reduce irrigation gradually. The goal is to wean plants off supplemental water entirely for the arid zone, and water the oasis zone only during extreme drought.

Step 7: Select and Plant

Now the fun part. Here are the best xeriscape plants for Austin, organized by layer:

Ground covers (lawn alternatives)

Low perennials and accents (0–2 ft)

Mid-layer shrubs and perennials (2–5 ft)

Structural plants and accents

Trees

Planting tips for Austin

• Dig wide, not deep: Planting holes should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball but no deeper. In clay soil, a deep hole becomes a bathtub that drowns roots
• Do not amend the backfill: Fill the hole with the same native soil you dug out. If you fill the hole with compost, roots will circle inside the amended pocket and never spread into the surrounding soil
• Water immediately after planting: Soak each plant thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets
• Plant in fall if possible: October and November are the best planting months in Austin. Cooler temperatures reduce transplant stress, and fall rains help establish roots before summer

Step 8: Mulch Everything

Mulch is the most underrated element in a xeriscape. A 3 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch reduces soil temperature by 10 to 20 degrees, retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and feeds the soil as it decomposes.

Mulch options for Austin xeriscapes

• Shredded hardwood mulch: The workhorse. Stays in place, decomposes slowly, looks natural. Best for planting beds around shrubs and perennials. 3 to 4 inches deep
• Decomposed granite (DG): Mineral mulch that does not decompose. Best for pathways, around agave and cacti, and areas where you want a clean, dry look. 2 to 3 inches deep. Use steel edging to keep it contained
• River rock and gravel: Permanent. Best for dry creek beds, accent areas, and around structural plants. Does not retain moisture or feed soil, so use only where that is appropriate
• Cedar mulch: Naturally repels insects. Good around the foundation. More expensive than hardwood. Smells great

Do not use: Dyed mulch (the dye can leach chemicals), rubber mulch (looks terrible and does not benefit soil), or landscape fabric under organic mulch (it prevents the mulch from feeding the soil and creates a maintenance headache as it breaks down).

Apply mulch 3 to 4 inches deep but keep it 3 inches away from plant stems and tree trunks. Mulch piled against stems causes rot.

Step 9: Establish and Maintain

The first year is the critical establishment period. Your xeriscape will need more water during this phase than it will for the rest of its life.

Year one: establishment

• Water deeply 2 to 3 times per week for the first month
• Reduce to once or twice per week for months 2 through 6
• Reduce to once per week or less for months 6 through 12
• Monitor for signs of stress: wilting, yellowing, or leaf drop. Water stressed plants individually rather than increasing the entire system
• Replace any plants that die within the first 90 days — if a plant fails early, it was either the wrong species for that location or was planted incorrectly

Year two and beyond: maintenance

• Most established xeriscape plants need supplemental water only during extreme drought (3+ weeks without rain in summer)
• Refresh organic mulch annually — add 1 to 2 inches each spring to maintain the 3 to 4 inch depth
• Prune perennials in late winter (February) — cut autumn sage, flame acanthus, and similar plants back by one-third to one-half to encourage bushy new growth
• Remove spent agave bloom stalks after flowering
• Divide and transplant spreading perennials every 2 to 3 years to prevent overcrowding
• Weed by hand in spring before weeds set seed — a thick mulch layer makes this a 10-minute weekly task, not an all-day ordeal

Austin Water Rebates and Incentives

Austin Water’s WaterWise Landscaping rebate program provides up to $3,000 for qualifying turf-to-xeriscape conversions. Key requirements:

• You must be an Austin Water customer
• Apply and receive approval before starting work
• Remove existing turf grass and replace with approved water-efficient landscaping
• Meet minimum area conversion requirements
• Applications are accepted through December 31 each year or until funds are exhausted
• Visit austintexas.gov/water for the current application and full program guidelines

LCRA also offers WaterSmart rebates for properties in their service area. Check lcra.org/watersmart for eligibility.

Additionally, Austin offers free compost and mulch at the Decker Creek and Hornsby Bend composting facilities. This can save hundreds of dollars on soil amendments and mulch for your xeriscape project.

How Much Does Xeriscaping Cost in Austin?

Professional costs include design, soil preparation, plants, irrigation, mulch, hardscape, and labor. DIY costs are materials only. The biggest cost difference is labor — soil prep and planting on Austin clay is physically demanding work.

For a detailed cost breakdown by component, see our full guide: How Much Does Xeriscaping Cost in Austin, TX?

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Too much gravel, not enough plants: A yard that is 80% gravel and 20% plants looks like a construction site, not a landscape. Aim for at least 50% plant coverage at maturity
• Ignoring scale: A single 1-gallon plant in a 200-square-foot bed looks lost. Plant in groups of 3, 5, or 7 for impact. Mass plantings of the same species create more visual weight than one of everything
• Skipping soil prep: Dropping a drought-tolerant plant into unimproved Austin clay is setting it up to fail. Even xeric plants need decent drainage
• No hardscape structure: Without edging, pathways, or boulders, a xeriscape looks like an empty lot with plants scattered around. Steel edging and DG pathways give the landscape architecture
• Overwatering after establishment: Once plants are established (12 to 24 months), most xeriscape plants are healthier with less water. Overwatering encourages root rot, especially in clay soil
• Planting in summer: Installing a xeriscape in July is fighting the climate instead of working with it. Wait for fall

DIY vs. Hiring a Professional

DIY xeriscaping works for small projects (under 500 square feet), simple designs, and homeowners with the physical capacity for heavy soil work. You will save 40% to 60% on labor costs.

Hire a professional for projects over 1,000 square feet, designs with grading changes or drainage work, and landscapes where plant selection and placement need to be right the first time. A professional design costs $500 to $2,000 and pays for itself by preventing expensive plant failures and design regrets.

The biggest advantage of professional installation is experience with Austin’s clay soil. A crew that has built hundreds of xeriscapes on Blackland clay knows exactly how deep to prepare the soil, which plants thrive in which microclimates, and how to design drip irrigation that actually works — knowledge that takes years of trial and error to develop on your own.

Get a Free Xeriscape Consultation

We design and install custom xeriscapes across Austin, Westlake Hills, Cedar Park, Round Rock, and surrounding areas. Every project starts with a site assessment, a custom design that matches your style and budget, and a detailed proposal with plant schedules and material specifications.

Request a free consultation and we will visit your property, assess the soil and sun conditions, and show you what a professional xeriscape looks like on your specific lot. Browse our signature projects gallery to see completed xeriscapes, or read what our 125+ five-star clients have to say.